Minimum Wage Killing Seattle Restaurants? 'Absolutely Not,' Says Ethan Stowell
After a rash of restaurant and bar closures marked the end of 2019, some may be looking at the next year with trepidation. A detailed, thought-provoking report that ran this weekend in the Seattle Times by Bethany Jean Clement explores the complicated economics of the areas food scene, including the much-debated $15 minimum wage law, which some such as the recently bankrupt Restaurants Unlimited blamed for closures. The reality appears much more complicated. For instance, restaurateur Ethan Stowell (Tavolata, How to Cook a Wolf) says in the article that the $15 minimum wage is absolutely not destroying area restaurants.
There are, of course, a host of factors involved. The cost of living in Seattle is going very high, and its trickling down to business, Stowell told the Times. Another big issue mentioned is the rise in retail space costs, which have increased 36 percent per square footage from a decade ago. That, together with increased competition and pressure to play ball (and sacrifice a portion of revenue) to third-party delivery apps, have made things difficult for many restaurants.
Stowell even says he feels fortunate to be able to reassess his business by closing places that didnt work (such as the recently-shuttered Super Bueno and Bramling Cross), whereas smaller restaurants may have to stay open, despite a challenging environment, in order to pay back loans and keep up with bills. No matter what, the situation doesnt look great for growth, but the article provides push back against those who lay the blame solely on the minimum wage increase.
Meanwhile, not everyone was enthralled with the quotes from the Times piece. Chef Eric Rivera (of Addo fame) said on Facebook that being just ok doesnt work anymore. The people that have moved here have experienced other food scenes and gave the money to drive that expectation. Step aside or step up.
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