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aikoaiko

(34,185 posts)
Sat Jul 4, 2015, 11:24 AM Jul 2015

Michael Twitty: Barbecue is an American tradition – of enslaved Africans and Native Americans



http://www.theguardian.com/commentisfree/2015/jul/04/barbecue-american-tradition-enslaved-africans-native-americans?CMP=share_btn_tw

Barbecue is a form of cultural power and is intensely political, with a culture of rules like no other American culinary tradition: sauce or no sauce; which kind of sauce; chopped or not chopped; whole animal or just ribs or shoulders. And, if America is about people creating new worlds based on rebellion against oppression and slavery, then barbecue is the ideal dish: it was made by enslaved Africans with inspiration and contributions from Native Americans struggling to maintain their independence.

The common cultural narrative of barbecue, however, exclusively assigns its origins to Native Americans and Europeans; the very etymology of the word is said to derive from both Carib through Spanish (barbacoa – to roast over hot coals on a wooden framework) or from western European sources (barbe-a-queue in French – “head to tail” – which fits nicely with contemporary ideas of no-waste eating and consuming offal). Some American barbecue masters have taken to attributing the innovation of barbecue to their German and Czech ancestors.

If anything, both in etymology and culinary technique, barbecue is as African as it is Native American and European, though enslaved Africans have largely been erased from the modern story of American barbecue. At best, our ancestors are seen as mindless cooking machines who prepared the meat under strict white supervision, if at all; at worst, barbecue was something done “for” the enslaved, as if they were being introduced to a novel treat. In reality, they shaped the culture of New World barbecuing traditions, from jerking in Jamaica to anticuchos in Peru to cooking traditions in the colonial Pampas. And the word barbecue also has roots in West Africa among the Hausa, who used the term “babbake” to describe a complex of words referring to grilling, toasting, building a large fire, singeing hair or feathers and cooking food over a long period of time over an extravagant fire.

In the earliest colonial days, the West Indies served as a seed colonies for the presence of enslaved Africans in the New World especially because, within 10 years of European arrival, indigenous Americans endured mass, genocidal losses due to the introduction of diseases common in Europe. With only a few remaining Carib and Arawak indigenes, Africans quickly became the majority on the islands and, eventually, the Southeastern coast (where many island colonists resettled in the late 17th and early 18th centuries, often with their enslaved people in tow).


I first came upon Michael Twitty when he wrote an open letter to Paul Deen (which I thought was the best response to the fiasco).

http://afroculinaria.com/2013/06/25/an-open-letter-to-paula-deen/
47 replies = new reply since forum marked as read
Highlight: NoneDon't highlight anything 5 newestHighlight 5 most recent replies
Michael Twitty: Barbecue is an American tradition – of enslaved Africans and Native Americans (Original Post) aikoaiko Jul 2015 OP
Good info. Thanks for posting. nt brush Jul 2015 #1
bbq was invented by the Carib indians in So America & the carribean elehhhhna Jul 2015 #2
So was hurricane. HooptieWagon Jul 2015 #4
yep! elehhhhna Jul 2015 #31
Carib-Arawak "canoua" HooptieWagon Jul 2015 #32
Barbacoa... HooptieWagon Jul 2015 #3
All cultures and nations burn meat on an open fire. And have, like forever. Pre- historic Cavemen never get any credit.. Fred Sanders Jul 2015 #5
No shit. pintobean Jul 2015 #10
Did they call it barbacoa... barbecue? HooptieWagon Jul 2015 #18
Someone is missing something, I will give you that. Fred Sanders Jul 2015 #30
That is because those cavemen never understood one key thing.... MADem Jul 2015 #28
Tomb paintings in Ancient Egypt from 4000 years ago hifiguy Jul 2015 #37
Great post malaise Jul 2015 #6
A lot of this is irrelevant - indigenous people all over the world have always cooked over an open jwirr Jul 2015 #7
Maybe, maybe not TexasProgresive Jul 2015 #8
'Hell yeah 'Merica Latrecia Bennett Jul 2015 #9
White folks culturally appropriating again! riderinthestorm Jul 2015 #11
So can we barbecue today, or B2G Jul 2015 #12
Fuck it. I'm appropriating from as many cultures as possible today. cherokeeprogressive Jul 2015 #14
You've got to have some dreads going on as well. riderinthestorm Jul 2015 #16
Happy Fourth of July to you too! cherokeeprogressive Jul 2015 #24
I'd say that everyone, from every culture, can cook whatever the hell they want over an open flame. xmas74 Jul 2015 #17
There's a place in town that makes the BEST take and bake pizza. cherokeeprogressive Jul 2015 #26
That sounds fantastic. xmas74 Jul 2015 #29
Your post makes me angry. Tree-Hugger Jul 2015 #35
Now THAT sounds like the way to celebrate a summer holiday. hifiguy Jul 2015 #38
I think Michael Twitty totally supports everyone eating it. aikoaiko Jul 2015 #19
Pretty sure every group on earth cooked meat over fire in their past. linuxman Jul 2015 #13
Nooooo don't take away an outrage trigger... some people need 'em. n/t cherokeeprogressive Jul 2015 #15
I don't think this piece or his other work is about outrage. aikoaiko Jul 2015 #25
Did they call it barbacoa ... Barbecue? HooptieWagon Jul 2015 #22
Yes, of course. Like languages everyone has one, but not all are derived from each other aikoaiko Jul 2015 #23
"US Southern BBQ" awoke_in_2003 Jul 2015 #41
Its true. In the South, BBQ is low and slow (not grilling). aikoaiko Jul 2015 #43
In my part of Texas TexasProgresive Jul 2015 #47
Sometimes, you can overthink things. I've got burgers to flip. Comrade Grumpy Jul 2015 #20
Burger sounds German, are you a Nazi? Uncle Joe Jul 2015 #36
Today I'm doing spare ribs with a Neanderthal demi glace and a cromagnon summer slaw. Throd Jul 2015 #21
it's a celebration of Speciesism HFRN Jul 2015 #27
And that alligator in the bayou just committed speciesism too. hobbit709 Jul 2015 #34
I declare henceforth that all liberals of good conscience cease using the term 'barbque' and... wyldwolf Jul 2015 #33
I'd also heard that barbecue was named after a ranch with this brand Arugula Latte Jul 2015 #39
Jerk in Jamaica is linked to the Maroons malaise Jul 2015 #40
I've been meaning to make jerk chicken... awoke_in_2003 Jul 2015 #42
Imitating a style of cooking is not "stealing". Joe Magarac Jul 2015 #44
Did the article use the word "stealing"? aikoaiko Jul 2015 #46
Michael Twitty romanic Jul 2015 #45
 

elehhhhna

(32,076 posts)
2. bbq was invented by the Carib indians in So America & the carribean
Sat Jul 4, 2015, 11:35 AM
Jul 2015

The were nasty warrior cannibals who annihilated the Arawaks.

The words barbecue and cannibal were derived from the Carib language.

 

HooptieWagon

(17,064 posts)
3. Barbacoa...
Sat Jul 4, 2015, 11:42 AM
Jul 2015

Meat roasted over open fires by groups of outlaws (escaped slaves, ruffians, etc) on the island of Hispanola. These outlaws, who often raided local shipping, were called Bucans, later Bucaneros, from which the English word Buccaneer is derived.

Fred Sanders

(23,946 posts)
5. All cultures and nations burn meat on an open fire. And have, like forever. Pre- historic Cavemen never get any credit..
Sat Jul 4, 2015, 11:45 AM
Jul 2015
 

HooptieWagon

(17,064 posts)
18. Did they call it barbacoa... barbecue?
Sat Jul 4, 2015, 12:39 PM
Jul 2015

The point, which you missed, is not what they did but what they called it.

 

hifiguy

(33,688 posts)
37. Tomb paintings in Ancient Egypt from 4000 years ago
Sat Jul 4, 2015, 03:37 PM
Jul 2015

show birds and beasts being roasted over an open fire.

It's probably mankind's oldest form of cookery.

jwirr

(39,215 posts)
7. A lot of this is irrelevant - indigenous people all over the world have always cooked over an open
Sat Jul 4, 2015, 11:46 AM
Jul 2015

fire. And that was true of both black slaves and Native Americans. I also suspect that adding spices and sauce to cooking was a common practice long before.

For the real inventor I think we are going to have to go way further back in history than early American history.

TexasProgresive

(12,159 posts)
8. Maybe, maybe not
Sat Jul 4, 2015, 11:48 AM
Jul 2015

I think this is one of those things that is too ubiquitous and so far in prehistory to give anyone credit. If we can't determine the origin of the hamburger or hot dog or ice cream cone with certainty how can we know about this form of cooking?

Reminds me of "Digging the Weans" by Robert Nathan. Here is an audio file of Theodore Bikel reading it:
http://alexrandall5.com/2013/09/28/theodore-bikel-reading-digging-the-weans-by-robert-nathan/

 

Latrecia Bennett

(34 posts)
9. 'Hell yeah 'Merica
Sat Jul 4, 2015, 11:48 AM
Jul 2015

It belongs to me tonight. I'm going to consume charred animal flesh, drink some adult beverages and blow some fireworks up.

 

cherokeeprogressive

(24,853 posts)
14. Fuck it. I'm appropriating from as many cultures as possible today.
Sat Jul 4, 2015, 12:33 PM
Jul 2015

First up were omelets for me and my guests.

For lunch I'm firing the Weber up with the new insert and we're having wood-fired pizza.

Before we go watch the blow shit up show, it's t-bones and lobster tail washed down with Patron.

 

riderinthestorm

(23,272 posts)
16. You've got to have some dreads going on as well.
Sat Jul 4, 2015, 12:37 PM
Jul 2015

might as well up the ante some...



Happy 4th cherokeeprogressive!



xmas74

(29,676 posts)
17. I'd say that everyone, from every culture, can cook whatever the hell they want over an open flame.
Sat Jul 4, 2015, 12:38 PM
Jul 2015

Something tells me that it's been done since man first played with fire and that it isn't just one culture that figured it out.

BTW-your pizza sounds fabulous, as does the t-bone and lobster tail.

 

cherokeeprogressive

(24,853 posts)
26. There's a place in town that makes the BEST take and bake pizza.
Sat Jul 4, 2015, 12:47 PM
Jul 2015

It cooks in like 6 minutes with the insert I got for the Weber kettle.

Kettlepizza.com

aikoaiko

(34,185 posts)
23. Yes, of course. Like languages everyone has one, but not all are derived from each other
Sat Jul 4, 2015, 12:41 PM
Jul 2015

Twitty is following the roots of US Southern BBQ.
 

awoke_in_2003

(34,582 posts)
41. "US Southern BBQ"
Sat Jul 4, 2015, 08:13 PM
Jul 2015

which is not, like a lot of people think, the same as grilling. Grilling is a high heat thing- what most people do. Southern BBQ is low and slow, usually with an offset fire, with the meat cooking at around 225 F for a long time. A brisket or pork shoulder can easily take 8 hours.

aikoaiko

(34,185 posts)
43. Its true. In the South, BBQ is low and slow (not grilling).
Sat Jul 4, 2015, 10:48 PM
Jul 2015

My wife, a true southerner, taught me that when someone says they are eating BBQ, that means its pork, but brisket is brisket.

TexasProgresive

(12,159 posts)
47. In my part of Texas
Sun Jul 5, 2015, 07:13 AM
Jul 2015

BBQ is slow cooked brisket served with beans, onion slices, pickles and white bread. The sauce is poured over the brisket after being sliced, not during cooking. There will be a basting sauce. Usually some will do sausages, pork, chicken but the crowning pièce de résistance is the brisket.

People need to stop trying to own this method of cooking. When you are in the Carolinas enjoy pork BBQ, when in Texas brisket, when in Mexico barbacoa and when in Connecticut hot dogs and burgers. If you argue with the cook that what they are preparing is not BBQ you are a most ungracious guest and will no doubt not convince anyone that you are right- just have convinced them you are a boor. Even if you are right remember no one wants to hear from Dr. Sheldon Cooper.

 

HFRN

(1,469 posts)
27. it's a celebration of Speciesism
Sat Jul 4, 2015, 12:50 PM
Jul 2015

where some creatures are deprived of their very lives, based on the species they happen to be born to

wyldwolf

(43,870 posts)
33. I declare henceforth that all liberals of good conscience cease using the term 'barbque' and...
Sat Jul 4, 2015, 02:03 PM
Jul 2015

... instead use "grillin'" or ye be labeled a heretic!

 

Arugula Latte

(50,566 posts)
39. I'd also heard that barbecue was named after a ranch with this brand
Sat Jul 4, 2015, 06:10 PM
Jul 2015

Bar over the initials BQ, as on a branding iron.

malaise

(269,200 posts)
40. Jerk in Jamaica is linked to the Maroons
Sat Jul 4, 2015, 06:32 PM
Jul 2015

Two things - just this week UNESCO named the Blue and John Crow Mountains a global heritage site. The Moore Town Maroon settlements are in that area.

http://jis.gov.jm/jamaicas-blue-and-john-crow-mountains-inscribed-to-unescos-prestigious-world-heritage-list/

Tomorrow is the annual Jerk Festival in Portland, Jamaica.

 

Joe Magarac

(297 posts)
44. Imitating a style of cooking is not "stealing".
Sat Jul 4, 2015, 11:08 PM
Jul 2015

This is blood feud mentality mongering by people who want war.

aikoaiko

(34,185 posts)
46. Did the article use the word "stealing"?
Sat Jul 4, 2015, 11:28 PM
Jul 2015

I don't think stealing or even appropriation is the point of this piece.

romanic

(2,841 posts)
45. Michael Twitty
Sat Jul 4, 2015, 11:27 PM
Jul 2015

sounds like a straight up twit. Another so-called academic progressive writing gobbledygook to appease his guilty white fanbase (lbr that's who are reading his crap). I ain't buying it brother, now eat some ribs and shut up.

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