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Related: Culture Forums, Support ForumsThe Secret To Perfect Molding Returns
I've been installing molding most of my life, but I only learned how to do this 10 years ago when I did my kitchen.
What this is...you want a finished end (instead of a rough looking cut end) on your molding in cases where the piece of molding doesn't terminate into another piece of molding, or terminate into a wall.
You cut a small piece and attach it to the rough cut end so the molding returns into the wall with a finished edge.
It's easy to do once you learn how to do it, but you have to be careful not to cut your fingers off.
I'm posting this in case anyone might be interested in this type of thing, like I am. I've done this on baseboard, cove molding, and even quarter-round.
Phoenix61
(18,713 posts)I need to install. This is going to make it look so much neater. Thanks!
LuckyCharms
(21,971 posts)Seriously, it's a real risk!
Also, that little piece will most likely go flying across the room when you cut it, especially if you are using a fixed miter saw, rather than a slider.
Contrary to the video, I didn't use CA glue...I used regular wood glue and a 23 gauge nail gun, and they came out fine.
Good luck!
Phoenix61
(18,713 posts)Nothing like a reason for a new tool.😂
LuckyCharms
(21,971 posts)They're $1,800!!!!
I used a 10 inch Hitachi fixed miter saw, until it finally gave up the ghost. It was a great saw that I used for over 20 years.
I replaced it with a 7 1/4 inch Ryobi slider that did a good job for trim work.
Phoenix61
(18,713 posts)but they arent the prettiest cuts.
LuckyCharms
(21,971 posts)It was cheap, and the 90 and 45 degree stops were perfect out of the box, no adjustment needed. So was the bevel.. I couldn't believe it. It's a good little saw for the price.
I replaced the stock blade with a 60 tooth (I think) diablo blade.

Phoenix61
(18,713 posts)mobeau69
(12,232 posts)LuckyCharms
(21,971 posts)Those pins don't have much holding power because they have no head, but they are great for clamping glued wood until the adhesive cures.
mobeau69
(12,232 posts)for light trim pieces. Best part is you can barely see them so no filling required. LOL
LuckyCharms
(21,971 posts)I normally use 18 gauge for trim and fill the holes.
I had a 16 gauge that jammed up so bad that I half demolished the thing trying to get the nail unjammed. I'll repair that gun someday, because it worked well until it jammed.
I bought a 15 gauge Rigid brand for hanging doors.
I used the 23 gauge when refacing cabinet end panels, stiles and rails with 1/4 inch hard maple. 3M-90 spray adhesive, and then 23 GA pins to clamp them. It worked out well.
mitch96
(15,673 posts)LuckyCharms
(21,971 posts)so no paint or caulk. So the cut has to be exact. A cabinet guy taught me how to do this over the phone!
I first saw this on some some chair rail molding at a friend's house years and years ago. It was done by the home builder, and I used to go to my friend's house for dinner a lot.
Every time I walked into his dining room, I would look at that returned chair rail molding and wonder...how the hell do you do that?
LudwigPastorius
(14,243 posts)Proceeds to use an $1,800 sliding compound miter saw.