Help me diagnosis a car problem, please - updated 07/06 10:30 pm.

[Denninmi]

Last edited Sat Jul 6, 2013, 11:13 PM - Edit history (1)

2006 Chevy Equinox AWD automatic. Seems to have poor power especially upon acceleration, like it almost wants to stall. Getting worse, now it seems to have little power overall - you push the accelerator and it barely goes. In the driveway, it almost stalled out and ran rough when I started.

Adding a fuel system cleaner helped temporarily, but only for a few days.

It's not electrical, battery. Got a new one of those in February. Sure it's related to the fuel system.


UPDATE - I took it in this morning to the regional chain place I always use ... And ... They couldn't find any problem - of course, it drove perfectly normally on the way over - I failed to mention in my original post that it's an intermittent problem, not constant.

So, it remains a mystery. I put in some mid-grade gas and am hoping for the best fir now.

They did, however, come up with enough other things, routine maintenance plus a few repairs, to put the bill over $1,000. Oh well.

[In_The_Wind]

1. Have you checked your vacuum hoses ?

[Kali]

2. fuel filter, fuel pump

auto zone has repair manual stuff on line, create an account

[jakeXT]

3. Only had power loss when a marten destroyed two engine cables

[Flashmann]

4. a fuel system cleaner helped temporarily

Strongly suggests,as another's already said,some problem in the fuel delivery;pump,filter,somehow a line got crimped or clogged...I had similar problems in a '96 Chevy,along with the gas pedal becoming noticeably harder over time,to press...It was the "throttle body".

[MicaelS]

5. Could be a bad fuel pump.

Googling your vehicle, shows it has an electric in-the-fuel-tank pump. The fuel itself cools the pump, as long as it has fuel in the tank. If you have run the car COMPLETELY out of fuel, to the point where it stopped running, you may have damaged the fuel pump. If so, the pump will have to be replaced. The cost is VERY high. The pump alone runs $300-$600 dollars. Your fuel tank has to be drained and removed to swap the pump. Then the tank has to be reinstalled. I hate to say it, but if you are looking at a bad fuel pump, the cost could run as high as $1,000.

[MADem]

9. OUCH...bassstids! Why put the pump in the damn tank? Do they warn people to not let the gas go

below, what, half a tank?

[MicaelS]

14. To cool the pump with fuel.

And warning you to NOT run your car completely out of gas, is one of those things they don't really emphasize these days.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fuel_pump

In many modern cars the fuel pump is usually electric and located inside the fuel tank. The pump creates positive pressure in the fuel lines, pushing the gasoline to the engine. The higher gasoline pressure raises the boiling point. Placing the pump in the tank puts the component least likely to handle gasoline vapor well (the pump itself) farthest from the engine, submersed in cool liquid. Another benefit to placing the pump inside the tank is that it is less likely to start a fire. Though electrical components (such as a fuel pump) can spark and ignite fuel vapors, liquid fuel will not explode (see flammability limit) and therefore submerging the pump in the tank is one of the safest places to put it. In most cars, the fuel pump delivers a constant flow of gasoline to the engine; fuel not used is returned to the tank. This further reduces the chance of the fuel boiling, since it is never kept close to the hot engine for too long.

[MADem]

23. Honest to donuts, I know that most people are not at all aware of this!

This is why I like DU so much, I learn something new every day....this was a One Big Thing I learned today!

[ConcernedCanuk]

32. Nothing to do with the heat

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Electric fuel pumps were under the hood decades ago, but they suffered when fuel injection came in because the fuel injection systems required more pressure.

More pressure is available with a submersible pump of any kind.

Easier to push fluids with electric pumps than to suck it up.

Think "sump-pumps" - the pump is in the water.

That simple.

CC

[ConcernedCanuk]

20. Why put the pump in the tank?

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Because it is much more efficient to push liquids than to suck them up.

That's why most wells use submersible pumps - just took the car industry a little longer to figure that out.

CC

[MADem]

22. They should create a design that makes it easier to take the thing out of the tank.

A thousand dollar job for a part that can go bad....?

[ConcernedCanuk]

25. Manufacturers care about the cost of building, not repairing

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As a mechanic I've cursed the "engineers" many times.

And will continue to do so until I'm pushing up daisies.

I worked on one vehicle ( Chevy Monza) ya had to jack up the engine just to change the spark plugs!

Them engineers ain't getting any smarter . . .

CC

[MADem]

26. Maybe you could come up with a design....?

You could be like the intermittent windshield wiper guy.....

[ConcernedCanuk]

28. Sure I could

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but I'm too old, and tired of the bullshit involved with dealing with any sort of management or government.

I remember, even as an apprentice mechanic coming up with an idea.

To replace what is known as a "frost plug" on a Dodge 1/2 ton cylinder head called for removing the head off the engine - a pretty major job.

The frost plug that needed replacing was at the back of the engine - within inches of the firewall.

Estimate for time was around 8 - 10 hours - I was working for our Dept. of Hwys at the time - a government outfit.

Anyhoo - took a look at it - figured I could cut a hole in behind the glove box - and change the frost plug by cutting a hole in the firewall to change the frost plug.

I did so - going back into the office afterwards (about 45 minutes) to tell them the truck was repaired.

THEY WERE FURIOUS!!

I messed up their time estimate system.

Save my wits to solve me own problems now.

CC

[MADem]

33. You shoulda fixed the thing....and then gone to the baaaaah! nt

[NoGOPZone]

38. My uncle is notorious for saying about auto engineers.

"they design the cars, they don't have to work on them!"

[MADem]

34. That makes sense! nt

[Callmecrazy]

6. Yep. Sounds like the fuel pump...

Or the little rubber hose connecting the fuel pump to the fuel line is ruptured. Happened to me on my Chevy pickup. Fixed it myself and it was a labor intensive process. Not to mention the danger of a fuel explosion. heh heh.

[RebelOne]

8. Yes, gotta agree with that. I had similar problems months ago

and had to replace my fuel pump.

[ConcernedCanuk]

7. plugged catalytic converter - very common

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poor engine is trying to push the exhaust out of a plugged unit -

sorta like constipation

no - ex-lax won't do the trick

need a new catalytic converter - some shops will replace it with just a pipe (although that is illegal due to emission laws)

fyi - I'm an Ontario licenced mechanic both for automotive and truck since 1975

So I am qualified to make such a diagnosis.

I think



CC

[Callmecrazy]

10. I don't think it's the cc, CC.

No reports of a foul odor coming from the car. It's the fuel pump me thinks.

[ConcernedCanuk]

16. Catalytic converter won't make a foul odor if plugged

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foul odor comes from a healthy converter when it gets too much fuel.

carry on - question was asked, - I answered to the best of my ability

and over 40 years experience with diagnosing and repairing vehicles.

CC

[Callmecrazy]

19. Ok, my error

I yield to the Master.

[ConcernedCanuk]

27. Actually - I almost got my Master Mechanics licence.

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I got to what we call "Interprovincial" level - that's getting over 85% in both practical and theory.

so I ain't one of your average mechanics - I know my shit.

When I was living in CA in 1979 - they never heard of a "licenced" mechanic, and I was getting 20 bucks an hour, no complaints - working out of the back of my car -

At one place I lived in Mission Valley - had rug in the garage - yep - I I be a clean mechanic.

Once even worked on a Rolls Royce Silver Shadow - dealership couldn't figure it out - I did.

Same thing with a Chevy Nova - wouldn't run - girl that owned it had given up - putting it up for sale. I saw her ad - approached her with a deal - If I can't get it running within 3 hours - ya owe me nothing.

I got paid for my 3 hours - and dinner!

Actually - only took me 1/2 hour - she paid me anyways.

I know my shit when it comes to cars.

CC

[RudynJack]

11. i just had the same.symptoms.

It was the timing belt.

[ConcernedCanuk]

30. Timing Belt - or chain - that may do it.

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When it gets stretched, or out of adjustment (some are adjustable, others have spring loaded automatic adjusters) -

the timing gets retarded (late) - that means the spark is not happening at the right time.

I'd be taking the vehicle to a mechanic and have it diagnosed before wasting money on unnecessary parts.

One can always do the repair themselves afterwards if they are capable and have the time.

Diagnosis is the critical part at this time methinks.

CC

[RudynJack]

31. Yeah...

I think mine was a chain. Expensive to replace (they had to lift the engine out) but it was the first time in 13 years the car was in the shop for anything other than brakes or oil changes. So I can't complain.

I love my Subaru.

[whistler162]

12. Okay first replace the part

between the seat and the steering wheel.

My Chevy Cruz needs 89 octane or better it doesn't like 87 octane gas. Might try a different grade of gas.

[MoreGOPoop]

13. May be the fuel rail regulator.

[RobertEarl]

15. Look under the hood

See that thing next to the thing that looks like it is something from Star Wars?

DON'T TOUCH IT!

Smile at it. Sing to it. Wink at it. Say a prayer over it and go back inside and burn a candle.

Then go back out and drive it to your nearest muffler shop and ask them to perform an exorcism on the catalytic convertor. You don't need a new one, just that one cleaned of it's evil demon dirt.

[ConcernedCanuk]

17. catalytic convertors have what looks like a honeycomb inside

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when it's plugged, it's plugged -

BUT - I have in the past rammed a piece of rebar or something through it to make a clear hole for the exhaust

nope - not legal, but any inspection under the car afterwards still shows the converter in place.

only a sniff test will figure it out (exhaust emission analyzer).

electric fuel pumps work, or they don't - like a light bulb.

I did have one scenario where the vehicle ran fine, but burnt gas like crazy - fouling the plugs in no time - problem turned out to be a pinched fuel return line from a recently installed gas tank - but that doesn't fit the OP's symptoms.

Problem with democracy is, if most of the voters are uninformed - ya get the governments we gots.

I suspect the OP will go the wrong way if the OP listens to the majority.

but that be us hoomans - gotta go with the flow

right or wrong

CC

[NoGOPZone]

18. I lean toward a fuel system issue, as others have mentioned

Testing the fuel pressure with a gauge would be a good first step.

[Callmecrazy]

21. With all due respect to CC...

It could also be the ignition module. A $35.00 part that connects to the distributor. All you need is a screwdriver to replace it. It's a little computer chip that controls spark timing and they are notorious for burning out in the Chevys.
But before you change the module, check the fuel pressure with a gauge. If the pressure is low, it's the pump

[MADem]

24. I am reccing your thread, it is full of information! nt

[madmom]

29. Had similar problems a few years ago...

check fuel injector.

[Wounded Bear]

35. It's the radiator cap....

lift it 6 inches, drive a new car under it, and re-tighten.

Sorry, couldn't resist an old shade tree mechanic's joke.

[EdwardSmith74]

36. It's "the module" - they always say that. Seriously, it sounds like the PVC valve.

They're really cheap and easy to replace. If it's bad, you'll get exactly the problem you're describing. The PVC valve regulates water vapor and if it went to Budda you'll be lucky not to stall out at every traffic light. It should be on top of the intake manifold and only takes an adjustable wrench to replace, at least on a Chevy. Hit an auto parts store and get a replacement.

Pretty much everything you need to know is here: https://www.google.com/#sclient=psy-ab&q=2006+Equinox+PVC+valve&oq=2006+Equinox+PVC+valve&gs_l=hp.3..0i22i30l3.1277.28873.0.29096.42.26.10.6.6.0.384.5936.0j11j11j4.26.0....0...1c.1.19.psy-ab.bFfAIjmCriU&pbx=1&bav=on.2,or.r_cp.r_qf.&bvm=bv.48705608,d.dmg&fp=3b9c7e23c52a0ecc&biw=1031&bih=706

[NoGOPZone]

37. PCV is what you mean. Positive Crankcase Ventilation. PVC is a type of plastic. nt

[EdwardSmith74]

40. Yes. A little dislexia there. PCV is correct.

[Tuesday Afternoon]

39. once we diagnose it, you will have a diagnosis