Before Croissants, There Was Kubaneh, a Jewish Yemeni Delight
'All day long Id been looking forward to going out with friends for dinner, but as we talked between gulps of wine, ripping up the kubaneh wed ordered and swiping it in grated tomato, I was distracted. The bread was excellent, and in ways that resisted comparison tall and tan and sweet as brioche, but softer inside, more supple. It pulled apart easily, with the same satisfaction of Parker House rolls, but along more chaotic lines. Like a well-baked croissant, it was golden brown at the edges but impossibly buoyant with butter. We finished it quickly, as if it might unfasten itself from the plate at any second and float away.
Kubaneh, a Jewish Yemeni bread, was traditionally cooked overnight on a Friday, low and slow in the residual heat of the hearth, ready for Shabbat breakfast the next day. When Jewish Yemenites came to Israel in the late 19th century, they brought the bread with them, and its one of many immigrant dishes that define Israeli cuisine. Meir Adoni, the Moroccan-Israeli chef responsible for the version I had at Nur, told me he couldnt separate the sweet, yeasted perfume of kubaneh from Shabbat morning.
It should be brown outside, but melting inside and full of air, he said. For his restaurant in Manhattan, Adoni adapted his recipe so the kubaneh bakes in half an hour instead of overnight, but the keys to its texture hadnt changed: the hand-shaping process of the yeasted buns, and a nice long proof. With all this in mind, I took a lesson at his partners bakery, Breads Bakery, a few blocks away, where cooks make Adonis kubaneh daily and deliver it to the restaurant.'>>>
https://www.nytimes.com/2017/06/22/magazine/before-croissants-there-was-kubaneh-a-jewish-yemeni-delight.html?
OH GEE, I'm TOO FAR from 'my' French patisserie so may have to go to grocery store with HOPE of finding decent bread!