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In reply to the discussion: The 25 Whiskeys You Need to Try Before You Die [View all]Celerity
(51,437 posts)cost double it would still be worth it IMHO, easy)
very very complex (especially for an 8 year old!!)
deffo not a beginner dram, but so rewarding
track it down if you can (I put 2 buy links in too)
you will be glad you did
Kilkerran 8 year old Cask Strength Re-charred
https://www.masterofmalt.com/whiskies/kilkerran/kilkerran-8-year-old-cask-strength-whisky/
https://www.wine-searcher.com/find/kilkerran+8+year+old+cask+strength
https://malt-review.com/2019/12/03/kilkerran-8-year-old-cask-strength-recharred-oloroso-casks/
Kilkerran 8 Year Old Cask Strength Recharred Oloroso Casks Adams Notes
Colour: Erm
erm
well, Oloroso, to be honest
On the nose: Oh yes. Theres that Campbeltownian bass. A harmonious, sonorous, deep rumble of coal-smoke and diesel overlaying candle wax, leather, walnut and dusty tome. Very old-school much more distillate and cask than any sort of sherry fruit.
In the mouth: Aaaaand
theres the sherry. To begin with. A big-bodied, mouthfilling gulp of raisins, sultanas, figs the full fruitcake (or, perhaps, Christmas pudding
) comes voluptuously crashing in, but its just a gasp ahead of the wave of distillate that follows; that big, burly, belching Campbeltown forge of coal and engine oil. Then the third wave tropical fruits. Indeed things get rather juicy indeed with ripe apricot and even mango. But always the coal dust and charred wood curls in about them, fading to an austere, smoky minerality. Theres quite an oomph of alcohol, as youd expect, but the body can cope with it and the flavour intensity certainly can. Just fabulously layered; you want to know complex? Try this.
Conclusions
Kilkerran could bottle spirit theyd aged in an asbestos-riddled sock and itd still fly out faster than a crack-zonked Peregrine falcon. Ive blown hot and cold on their whiskies in the past, but this one I absolutely adore. I can already hear Jason moaning about the shift from ex-bourbon casks, but variety is the spice of life and the wonderful thing about this whisky is that, assertive as the casks are, the spirit in the engine room is in gorgeous, full-throated Campbeltownian song. Its a knockout; a proper, classic Campbeltown for proper, classic Campbeltown purists and you should buy it (if you can find it).
It suddenly occurs to me that this is my fourth score of eight in a row, which is almost certainly a first for any Malt contributor. Indeed this is probably my favourite of that delicious quartet; its howling at the door of a nine. Our Phil, who sees whisky criticism as some sort of Tough Mudder Challenge, starts every review on a default of minus three and reckons awarding anything higher than six is proof of woolly-minded, unauthoritative hyperbole will doubtless accuse me of going soft. All I can say is that Id buy any of the last four whiskies Ive reviewed again in a heartbeat and recommend them to anyone who likes to drink nice things. Anyhow, Im just a part-timer on Malt these days. Im allowed to be less masochistic about what goes in my tasting glass.
Bottom line: I spent (a fraction) under £50 on this Kilkerran. At that price I dont reckon theres anything currently coming out of Scotland
or anywhere else
to touch it.
Score: 8/10
Kilkerran 8 Year Old Cask Strength Recharred Oloroso Casks Marks Notes
Colour: Henna very robust.
On the nose: Chinese Five Spice, damson chutney, with a smokey, charred, charcoal element that takes over. Chestnut, walnuts, a bit of woodiness; then a rush of red and black fruits blackberry and cranberry (sauce) in particular. Figs. Tobacco.
In the mouth: all kinds of dirty. Lovely texture, velvety, as I like it, but good lord what a combination of heavily charred, blackened meat utterly smeared in hoisin sauce. Cigars a lingering tobacco note that carries through to the finish. But before we get there, those sticky black fruits echoing the nose, with cherries, sundried tomatoes and a dollop of HP sauce. A hint of molasses under there, just a touch. Ultimately I think good whisky is about balance, and this has what I personally like best: heavier, deeper flavours, derived from very good production methods, but which are still harmonious Beethoven over Mozart, if you will. Or perhaps even Wagnerian when at best.
Conclusions
Well then. This is very good indeed utterly perfect for the depths of winter, just something full of soul. I find I am impatient with a great many whiskies these days theres so much utterly average, dull, flavourless guff clogging up our shelves, that I cant even be bothered to give most of it air time. Which means I only tend to write about the things I like because I am moved to do so. (And not unlike Adam, in fact, in giving yet another high score of late.)
This whisky has soul, it has personality. But, if you are a long-time reader of our Malt ramblings, you would probably expect that of a Kilkerran. Adam informs me this is 50 shekels which is, I have to say, an utter piss-take. A joke on the industry, surely?
Score: 8/10
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