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Edited on Mon May-12-08 08:10 PM by mike_c
...who is also planning to spend lots of time riding this summer for all of the reasons you noted.
I presume you're going to buy a chrome-moly frame-- they're heavier than aluminum and I'm further assuming that's as exotic as you're considering, but chome-moly steel is bomb-proof. Store it indoors and watch for rust so you can catch it early and a chrome-moly frame will last a lifetime. There are characteristic places that bike manufacturers cut corners to keep costs down. Some of those are important in the short run, others more as long term issues. The biggest shortcut is probably in the wheels. After the frame, wheels comprise a big chunk of the weight, rolling resistance, air resistance, and so on. Unfortunately, unless you've really done your research (or ride/work on bikes a lot) you probably won't know whether you're buying good wheels or cheap wheels. One thing you can do is replace the knobby-ish tires that many hybrids have with street tires right away, i.e. before you leave the bike store. I'm assuming you don't want a real mountain bike, so why ride half-assed MTB tires on pavement?
Another place manufacturers cut corners is on components, i.e. the bearings, derailleurs, cranksets, freewheel sprockets, and so on. Most of that doesn't add much relative weight-- not in that class of bike-- and you might end up adding back any weight you might have saved with more expensive components anyway if you're using the bikes for commuting and the like. These are mostly weight dividends in the grams to ounces range. Cheaper components simply don't stand up to wear as well, require more frequent adjustment, etc. Don't be frustrated by this-- just get it done when necessary to keep the bikes working well and riding comfortably. Plan on replacing the chain and the freewheel cluster (the gear cluster on the back wheel) after about a year. They will wear, even if they don't look worn.
Most important piece of advice-- buy frames that fit you well. If the bike doesn't fit, you'll be cramped, uncomfortable, and miserable. Really miserable. I'd be willing to bet that 80% or more of the comfort issues people have with bikes are related to poor fit. Google "bicycle fit" for info on what to look for. DO NOT LET THE SALESPERSON TELL YOU IT FITS IF IT DOESN'T!
Keep your chain clean and lubricated. Clean it and the sprockets a couple of time a year at least, more often if you ride a lot. Lube it every hundred miles or so. Clean and lube it ANYTIME it gets wet and muddy. A quiet drive train is an efficient drive train-- if it's noisy, either from lack of lubrication, wear, or from poorly adjusted moving parts, it's wasting precious energy-- your energy.
Likewise, keep your tires inflated to the maximum recommended by the manufacturer, or a bit more. I routinely inflate my tires about 10 percent above manufacturer's recommendations. Hard tires mean less friction, less rolling resistance. The difference can be dramatic-- just a few pounds underinflated and the bike feels sluggish and hard to pedal.
If you have seat issues, I've found the best solution is to just install a Brooks saddle straight away. You'll be tempted by gel thingies and ergonomically padded concoctions in plastic and vinyl, but they'll all disappoint you in the end, no pun intended. A Brooks will break in to your anatomy and fit like a soft glove. My Brooks saddles have all been more comfortable than any "comfort saddle" or computer designed thingie I've ever sat upon, right out of the box-- and they get better with wear.
Gotta go-- you inspired me to tune up my road bike tonight!
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