http://travel2.nytimes.com/2006/02/19/travel/19surface.htmlTHE festering slaughterhouses of the Union Stock Yards, so famously and gruesomely described by Upton Sinclair, are long gone. But the adjacent neighborhood of Bridgeport, on Chicago's South Side, has been home to other things as well, and most haven't been especially pretty: racial divisiveness, Chicago's notoriously shady political machine and, not least, its perennially losing White Sox.
But these days, the pennants celebrating last fall's World Series victory by the White Sox — the team's first since 1917 — are not the only signs of change in this blue-collar enclave of insular European ethnic groups and, more recently, Chinese and Mexican immigrants. Drawn by its affordable rents and gritty vibe, a small but lively community of artists is stirring in the shadows of Bridgeport's grisly hog-butcher-to-the-world past.
"It has a raw and undiscovered feeling, a place for creative energy," said Da Huang Zhou, a local artist, of the area's hulking industrial monoliths, working class bungalows and Formica-clad diners.
Mr. Zhou and his brother, Shan Zuo Zhou, arrived in the neighborhood from their native China in 1986 and have since become both pioneers and patrons of its growing creative colony. In late 2003, the Zhou brothers and their curator, Oskar Friedl, opened an arts complex called the Zhou B. Center, 1029 West 35th Street, 773-523-0200, www.zbcenter.org, in a converted four-story warehouse. Not far away, the Zhou Brothers Arts Foundation, 3302 South Morgan Street, 773-523-0200, www.zhoub.com, includes a gallery and a sculpture garden where the brothers show their own work, as well as that of others. For lunch, a few doors down at the Polo Cafe, 3322 South Morgan Street, 773-927-7656, visitors can have a $12.50 "Mayor's Steak" sandwich of Angus beef beneath murals of the five Chicago mayors — including Richard M. Daley, the current leader, and his father, Richard J. — that Bridgeport has produced.
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