An electrical tip so you don't go nuts like I did

[Jersey Devil]

OK, so I was replacing a light/fan/heat combo unit in the ceiling of my master bathroom that was almost 25 years old. I took down the old unit and discovered the wires to the heater were absolutely fried, the insulation cooked right off of them because it was a 20 Amp rated unit on a 15 Amp line, installed by an electrician no less, when the home was built 25 years ago. The damned house could have burned down due to his negligence.

So I found a good replacement online by Broan that was a unit rated for a 15 Amp line, and assured that this time, despite it being a doityourself job, there would be no chance of burning the house down.

I installed the new one without much of a problem until I tried to test it and ran up and down the goddamned stairs to the circuit breaker maybe 30 times before I realized that I probably had an additional problem - the switch was bad too!

So, tip #1 to myself - Always double check the amount of amperage for any electrical appliance/fixture against the rating for the electrical supply line for it.

Tip #2 - To prevent excess wear and tear on your legs and feet, change the goddamned switch you are working on for the outlet you are replacing at the same time.

That is all, goddammit!

[eleny]

1. Good advice

We had some electrical work done a few years ago. One of the ceiling lights was evidently too much for the wires. They were practically all melted into one glop. A real modern art sculpture living up there in the ceiling preparing to set the attic and roof on fire.

All the lines have been checked and replaced as needed. Now the house is safe for all our needs.

[lumberjack_jeff]

2. In older houses...

it is not uncommon for previous owners to replace 15a breakers with 20a. If the wiring is 14ga, this can be dangerous. A 20a circuit requires 12ga wire.

I'm surprised that the breaker didn't trip prior to wire/switch meltdown.

I'm also surprised that they make 110v ceiling fan/heat combos that require a full 20a. By way of comparison, a normal heat lamp bulb takes only 2.1a. 20a=2400w.

Aluminum wire was used in the 60's. It's dangerous. If you find it, call an electrician.

[Jersey Devil]

3. Yes, thanks

Most of the wire in my home (except the kitchen and AC) is 14ga/15a. The unit I removed did not have a heat lamp but a metal coil like a toaster over which a fan blew air. I replaced it with a Broan unit (also with a coil) that specifically states a 15a line is enough. If you look at the Broan and Nutone web sites you will see that virtually all of their heater units required a 20a line.

Why didn't the breaker trip? I suspect it was because the heater was still working and though the insulation was fried off the hot wire feeding the heater inside the unit's box it was still making contact and there was no short.

I've seen this type of thing before on outlets in the house that were backwired when installed (wire inserted in a hole in the back of the switch/outlet instead of screwed in). In a few of them the outlet was actually partially melted at the connection because it worked loose (I guess due to vibration) but still were connected close enough so that they would arc to make a connection, creating a lot of heat. Backwiring is not permitted in NJ anymore.

[Another Bill C.]

4. Backstab vs. backwire

The kind of outlet or switch where you insert a wire in the back to be captured by spring tension is called a "backstab" switch or outlet. These are bad.

The kind of outlet or switch where you insert a wire in the back but clamp it in place by way of a screw is called a "backwire" switch or outlet. These are good.

[Jersey Devil]

5. Thanks - I meant backstab

I was using the wrong terminology. Mine were 'backstab' and I have been changed them out room by room as I repainted the house.