Anybody know anything about spray foam insulation?

[tabasco]

It seems like just the ticket for the attic of my old cabin in West Virginia. There are DIY kits that look interesting but I haven't talked to anybody that has used them. I like the idea that it stops air leaks as well as insulates. I can't even get into the attic until I remove the roof! After the roof is partially removed, I want to spray the foam into the "attic" floor. The roof is being replaced so I thought it would be a good time to get some insulation in there. It has nothing now and snow just melts off the roof, creating major icicles. There is no hope to put on gutters until I get some insulation up there.

THANKS FOR any info.

[NMDemDist2]

1. seems an expensive thing to do. if the roof is off why not lay

fiberglass in there and just use the spray around the seams or just blow in a bunch of standard insulation if the roof isn't off enough to lay in rolls of fiberglass

I had cellulose insulation blown into a house in CA and it worked well and was quite affordable

here's a link with info on options

http://www.bobvila.com/HowTo_Library/Insulating_Old_Homes_Blow_In_Insulation_Options-Insulation-A1781.html

[tabasco]

2. Thanks for the ideas.

I like the air sealing factor of the foam because this is an old cabin with lots of air leaks.

I am considering just using foam around the seams like you said.

Thanks!

[Warpy]

6. I had my flat roof done with 2 inches of spray foam on top

and it stopped water leaks and certainly has helped me heat and cool this dump--important a mile up in the desert. It's a great insulator. However, mine is on top of the roof, above where the vents above the ceiling are.

You'll want your insulation to breathe. Foam will prevent moisture from escaping through the vents in your attic and you may end up with a lot of problems like dry rot, even moisture stains on your ceilings. Either use the pink stuff and don't seal the vapor barrier or use the blown in stuff.

[tabasco]

9. Thanks for the advice!

I'm thinking the blown in cellulose since it's so much cheaper.

[Kingshakabobo]

3. Do you have links to the DYI kits?

That might come in handy in the future....

That said, I think I agree with AZDemDist6 in that a nice thick bed of cellulose will suffice for the attic - especially if the roof is opened up.

I think the foam would be more economical and efficient for vertical walls/studs.

From what I understand, the foam material is quite expensive but you save a bunch in labor during the installation. Also, the foam is necessary for vertical/overhead installations due to its sticky properties. It doesn't seem to make sense to use foam on a flat surface when cellulose will do the same thing. I think you will solve any air infiltration problems with a nice thick bed of cellulose.

I wonder if you can do the cellulose your self? Has anyone seen any place that rents the machines? I know Home Depot sells the cellulose material in big bags - we used some to insulate, for sound, around some plumbing drains we ran through the floors. I would think it would be a no-brainer if you can rent the sprayer/mixer????? Save a bundle too!

[tabasco]

4. Yes, at least three major brands.

Tiger foam, Handi-foam, and Fomo-foam, I think.

I think you can do the cellulose yourself. In fact, I am told that Lowes will give you the blower free if you buy the stuff there, but I haven't confirmed. maybe I will give them a call right now.

THANKS for the advice.

[Kingshakabobo]

5. Very interesting. Thanks!

I didn't know you could do those as a DIY. Also, it never occurred to me that I could DIY cellulose insulation.

I may be cutting some holes in my drywall ceiling this summer! I'm on the 3rd/top floor of a 100 year old condo. I gutted the place a few years ago and, apparently, didn't do enough insulation. My biggest problem is the 30-plus "can lights" I put in the ceilings. I fear I didn't insulate enough above the lights. Now I'm wondering what clearance I would need for any insulation dumped on top of a can light?? Hmmm. Anyway, I'm sure the spray-foam would have been a nice solution for the vertical surfaces as I still get a little air infiltration.

[Kolesar]

7. You *may* be able to put fluorescent lights in those recessed fixtures

Better look into it carefully, though. Perhaps go with "very low power" <10Watt bulbs. The 13 Watt bulbs we put in the basement put off a surprisingly large amount of light.

Whatever you do with foam, don't use tri-polymer, because it shrinks and leaves gaps for air infiltraion. Polyisocyanurate expands with a lot of force and can pop your wall board off. Just a few facts I learned. We never did the blow in project. Will probably go with treated cellulose in the walls and have a pro do it.

[Longhorn]

8. I finally got a chance to read your post to my husband, a remodeling contractor.

It is his STRONG opinion that insulation is one of those things that is better left to a professional unless it is a simple, small, easy-to-access job. He said that they can get the materials for half of what you can and by the time you get your tools out, they've knocked out the job for probably ten percent more than it will cost you. (He has the same opinion about drywall.)

He doesn't recommend foam for attics. He said the only time he has ever used it (in 30-plus years of remodeling) is when the city required it to achieve a certain R-value in a very tight attic. He said you either have to fill the cavity completely or allow a vented airspace.

Good luck with whatever you decide! :hi:

[tabasco]

10. Thank you for the advice!

Sorry it took a week to respond. :hi: