dweller
(1000+ posts)
Send PM |
Profile |
Ignore
|
Tue May-10-05 09:33 PM
Original message |
| newbie in the group....w/ timing belt question Subaru 2.2L |
|
SOHC
i'm in the midst of my first waterpump/timing belt replacement. This is a high mileage car, and am just wanting to get the water pump done, replacing the timing belt in the process. I haven't removed the old TB yet, mainly because i can't seem to line up the reference points on the cam pulleys and the center (crankshaft) pulley as per directions from a Haynes manual. (actually some of the directions in the manual are bs, claiming i needed a chain wrench to remove the crank pulley...spent 3 hours and many trips to local stores to find one, and it did NOT do the job...a big screwdriver jammed in the flywheel did the trick, anyone want to buy a chain wrench cheap?).
so, my question(s) is/are: I've followed the directions carefully, putting the engine on TDC on #1 compression. Removed the belts, covers, and am now at the timing belts. Then i'm supposed to line up the reference points on 3 pulleys (2 cams, one toothed crank pulley) and at that time remove the idler pulleys, etc. to remove the belt. But nothing is lining up where i should be according to the manual.
I'm really trying to get past this to the water pump. I will have to remove one cam pulley to get to the water pump. Then after the water pump replaced, i have to start putting the pulley(s) and belt back on etc.
If my reference marks are not lining up as they should be, does this mean i've jumped timing? Should i just align the pulleys (with the belt off) to the referene marks and then proceed with a new belt?
and lastly, am i in over my head? I don't think so, but not sure if i should proceed without further ideas.
thanks in advance. If you answer with some knowledge i'll follow your advice and bug you for more. :)
dp
|
jayfish
(1000+ posts)
Send PM |
Profile |
Ignore
|
Fri May-13-05 08:06 PM
Response to Original message |
| 1. I'm No Expert But I... |
|
would get another reference for the timing. If it is the same as your Haynes book and the car runs fine with the timing the way it is, make new reference points and put it back together the way it came apart. As far as being over your head? You'll only know once it's done. I've gone into jobs that looked like pieces of cake on paper but turned disastrous. I've also done some things I thought I would never do myself without so much as scraped knuckles. The things that help me out most are good manuals, adequate tools, lots of light and plenty of patients.
Good luck,
Jay
|
nedbal
(675 posts)
Send PM |
Profile |
Ignore
|
Sat May-14-05 09:19 PM
Response to Original message |
| 2. mark positions of all pulleys and distributor and rotor |
|
Edited on Sat May-14-05 09:44 PM by nedbal
before you remove belt, use bright grease pencil, whiteout etc along with a scratch. if the other reference points don't work out , you have the as found points.
post all car specs and "IF" I get a chance I'll look at the Mitchell manual
<on edit> 1) if you have distributor and rotor then u need a timing light
2) on a aries I did once all marks ligned up and still needed to point rotor a 1/4 turn from original position. could have been off on dist gear but it worked out ok in the end
|
DU
AdBot (1000+ posts) |
Wed Oct 22nd 2025, 11:09 PM
Response to Original message |