from The Nation:
comment | posted November 19, 2007 (web only)
Luxury Grub Barbara Ehrenreich
More info: This essay originally appeared on Barbara Ehrenrieich's blog.Can you spare a tear for the ultra-rich? One week after achieving the Guinness World record for the world's most expensive dessert--a $25,000 "Frozen Haute Chocolate" containing five grams of edible 23-karat gold--the New York restaurant Serendipity 3 was shut down by the health department. It turns out that in addition to truffle shavings and other Haute Chocolate ingredients, the restaurant's kitchen contained "a live mouse, mouse droppings in multiple areas of the restaurant, fruit flies, house flies, and more than 100 live cockroaches," according to the inspectors.
The Haute Chocolate story is already exciting the usual populist outrage drizzled with references to Marie Antoinette. In the Detroit News, Brian O'Connor notes that for the price of two dozen of these confections all the food banks in his city would be able to meet the Thanksgiving demand instead of facing the holiday with empty shelves. He recommends guillotining the Haute Chocolate eaters, "Then we could treat the needy to a helping of my favorite dessert: ladyfingers."
But there could be all kinds of reasons for needing a $25,000 Haute Chocolate. What about the chocolate addict who freely chooses to blow his or her life savings on a single dessert? And we mustn't rule out those who suffer from a rare gold deficiency disorder and have already consumed their fillings and wedding rings. All of these worthy people now face a shuttered Serendipity when they go for their fix.
No, this isn't just another story about gluttony. It's a story about the inevitability of cockroaches in a world divided between rich and poor and served by a public sector in a state of bad decay. In this situation, even the rich get ripped off, and should live in fear that those truffle shavings are actually maggots in cross-section. As Robert Frank, the author of Richistan: A Journey Through the American Wealth Boom and the Lives of the New Rich, observed of the cockroach finding: "It goes to show that in today's mass luxury world, just because something is expensive doesn't mean something's good or high-quality." .....(more)
The complete piece is at:
http://www.thenation.com/doc/20071203/ehrenreich