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Certainly if you were in northern I-Corps (in the area of Khe Sahn) or if you were in the A Shau valley, you were engaging with regiment strength PAVN regulars. If you on the batangan Peninsula or in the area of Cu Chi or even Tay Ninh City, you were probably engaging with light mobile guerilla units that were also part of the local population. Also depends, as you point out, on time period. Post 1966 and especially post-1968, when the NLF units were decimated in the Tet fighting, you were increasingly engaging regular units. however, there remained large portions of the civilian population that engaged in fighting throughout the war, and, if this is a typical characteristic of guerilla warfare, then the Vietnam was - in part - a guerilla war throughout. I say "in part." As you noted, there were many engagements with regiment-strength forces and larger. However, we must question the traditional definition of guerilla warfare in light of Giap's notion of "People's War." Both against the french and against the Americans, the strategy of People's War - the gradual intensification from guerilla style attacks (combined with heavy and - let's not romanticize "resistance" - often brutal recruitment of the local populace - though no more brutal than the dominant war raged against them by the imperialists and local comprador elements) to larger scale regular campaigns. Given this definition, it is strictly speaking incorrect to characterize the war as ONE OR THE OTHER - it was guerilla warfare and regular warfare - by design!
And this combination was dispersed in time and space: not only was there a linear development from guerilla warfare to regular warfare, but there was also uneven development such that certain sectors continue regional guerilla war while regular units engage elsewhere. Again, just as the development over time matters, the regional location matters as well. That's the strategy of People's war as developed by Giap and dispersed throughout Vietnam - even down to autonomous and semi-autonomous cadres (for example, in 1963 cadres in the lower Delta asked their suppliers to cease sending small arms and ammunition for small arms from the North - it was easier to streamline and account for logistics if the units used American supplied arms that they were receiving from locally RVN supplied militia units; rather, the north should send heavier equiptment, like grenade launchers, which they were having a harder time "stealing" from their contacts in the militia and ARVN).
At the end of the day, given what we know about the composition and tactics of the PAVN and NLF, I think it is impossible to say whether it "was" a guerilla war or "wasn't." Vietnam both was and was not a guerilla war, depending on when you were there and where you were and the particular state of development of People's War at that time and place.
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