EstimatedProphet
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Mon Nov-08-04 06:29 PM
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Any auto mechanics on DU? |
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Got a problem... The truck runs bad at idle, and is using up coolant. I saw coolant coming out of the muffler pipe too when I had it at idle. When I run it at normal operating speeds, like high first gear or over, it's fine-no hesitation at all. But it sure sounds terrible getting to those speeds. I checked the oil, and it looked fine to me. Also, the temperature gauge isn't spiking either.
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ewagner
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Mon Nov-08-04 06:31 PM
Response to Original message |
1. coolant coming out of the muffler pipe |
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is never a good sign.
It could be a cracked block.
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HysteryDiagnosis
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Mon Nov-08-04 06:31 PM
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2. Sounds like you have a cracked head or a leaking head gasket. Leave your |
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radiator cap off and see if you get bubbles, tiny bubbles coming up the radiator neck...
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EstimatedProphet
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Mon Nov-08-04 06:32 PM
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3. That's kind of what I was thinking |
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but why isn't the performance more affected?
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HysteryDiagnosis
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Mon Nov-08-04 06:38 PM
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6. Small amounts of water/coolant leaking into the combustion chamber is not |
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all that much of a performance compromiser.. but give it time... it will show you how serious it is.
You can get a radiator pressure tester... attach it to the rad neck and let it run for a few minutes... you should see the pressure climb towards the red zone....
Heck, a little water will actually enhance combustion forces.. some systems actually used water injection to increase power and extend fuel economy years ago but it never caught on....
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classics
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Mon Nov-08-04 06:32 PM
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4. Are you absolutely sure its coolant? |
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And not just water condensation your seeing?
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EstimatedProphet
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Mon Nov-08-04 06:42 PM
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Modem Butterfly
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Mon Nov-08-04 06:37 PM
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If you have coolant in your exhaust, you'll like as not have it in your engine oil. Your engine oil will look lighter in color and frothy. Also, check your coolant. If it has oil, it will be white. If this is the case, do not so much as turn the engine over. If you have a repairable problem, which would be unlikely at this point, you will only damage it further. Driving it with an irrepreble problem will just get you stuck on the side of the road.
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EstimatedProphet
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Mon Nov-08-04 06:43 PM
Response to Reply #5 |
10. No, no coolant in the oil that I can see |
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or oil in the coolant either
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The Traveler
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Mon Nov-08-04 06:43 PM
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8. Time for a compression check |
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Easy to do yourself if you have the guage, a quick job for your local mechanic. If the block is cracked or the head gasket blown, you should see a real loss of compression. The fact you have good non-idle performance seems to contraindicate that.
Hmmm .... theory: Your water pump may be dying. If you have access to a stethoscope, listen to your water pump while idling. If you are losing coolant, and having noise at low RPM, then you might have some pump bearings that are getting ready to die. They are binding at low RPM but free up as you apply power. If this is the case, the pump is almost certainly leaking a bit ... there is a drain hole on the underside. Check around there for signs of moisture.
Check your water for signs of oil seeping into the coolant. Check your oil for signs of coolant seeping into the oil. That would take you back to the cracked block/blown gasket theory.
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physioex
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Mon Nov-08-04 06:43 PM
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Next time mention your make, model, mileage. This gives the person who is giving you advice a perspective. Coolant out of the muffler is strange. Water out of the muffler is normal as the burning of gasoline with oxygen produces mostly water, CO2, plus some other nasty gases.
You obviously drive a truck, and usually most of them aren't thrown away. Put in another engine after this one gives out....
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EstimatedProphet
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Mon Nov-08-04 06:45 PM
Response to Reply #9 |
11. Right: Dodge Dakota Sport 95, 2.5 L 4 cyl |
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I did the original post without thinking of it.
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EstimatedProphet
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Mon Nov-08-04 06:46 PM
Response to Reply #9 |
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there was white steam/smoke coming out of the muffler
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physioex
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Mon Nov-08-04 06:50 PM
Response to Reply #12 |
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If you find it something simple go ahead and have it fixed. Else keep driving till it goes, and start pricing engines. You can look at junkyard, and rebuilt. Good Luck :)
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EstimatedProphet
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Mon Nov-08-04 06:53 PM
Response to Reply #13 |
14. How much would you think an engine should run for, installed? |
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Thing is, I work 35 miles away, and there is no such thing as public transportation
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physioex
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Mon Nov-08-04 06:57 PM
Response to Reply #14 |
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Fortunately you have an american truck, and it's older. I would say parts should be relatively inexpensive, but I can't give you any numbers. Plus most mechanics should be familiar on how to work on it. Try and decide if you want a rebuilt engine or a junkyard engine. Rebuilt engines come with a warranty while junkyard engines don't. Jasper is a reputable engine rebuilder but there are several others. Check around and do some research on this....
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EstimatedProphet
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Mon Nov-08-04 07:55 PM
Response to Reply #15 |
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Edited on Mon Nov-08-04 07:58 PM by EstimatedProphet
I do appreciate the advice, from everyone. Still, this is not what I need right now... On edit-the car problems I mean.
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jmowreader
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Mon Nov-08-04 08:18 PM
Response to Reply #15 |
17. Some junkyard engines are easier to install, though |
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When you get an engine from someone like Jasper, you're getting a "long block"--which is the main casting with crankshaft, cam, pistons and heads. (A short block has no heads.) Someone has to pry your old engine out of the car, strip off all the accessories--alternator, fuel injection, oil pan, lots of things--and bolt them to the new long block before putting the new engine in the car.
A junkyard engine sometimes comes with all the accessories on it.
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