Has anyone ever used compression fittings on copper water supply lines...

[LeftyFingerPop]

instead of sweating on a nozzle?

Do they work, or do they leak?

Serious question...I have to install a laundry sink, but I don't have a MAPP torch, etc. Thanks.

[puerco-bellies]

1. I have never used a compression fitting. I don't know if I would trust one.

A MAPP torch with tank runs around 25-30 at home depot. Water damage would likely be more expensive.

[LeftyFingerPop]

2. Thanks...I'm still wrestling around with what I want to do...

Sink will be in a place where a burst will do no damage (basement). :hi:

[1]

3. 1. do they work? yes they work. when everthing is nice and the weather is perfect...

2. do they leak? yes they do. when the weather is freezing and the power is out and you wish you had never heard of a compression fitting.

may this never happen to you.

yeah, mapp. nice. but a propane torch is what? > $20? so if the question is compression fitting vs propane torch? and doing the job right the first time vs water spraying all over the place in a situation you cannot fix immediately, with the water everywhere and the subsequent mildew issues...


then the answer would be yes. compression fittings can work.



don't.

[LeftyFingerPop]

4. What type of fitting do I sweat onto a half inch line...

to accept a flex supply to the sink? Thanks.

[puerco-bellies]

7. A brass valve fitting with a threaded fitting on one side and a 1/2" fitting on the other.

Look at the end of the flex line connecting to your toilet. You can use the same type. If your supple line is running parallel to the wall, instead of coming straight out of the wall you can sweat a 90 degree "elbow" fitting. Just be sure to use a pipe clamp to secure the pipe to the wall as close as you can to the elbow when your done.

[LeftyFingerPop]

8. Thanks a lot....

I think it might be 1/2 on one end, and 3/8 on the other. Have not soldered in years....but I think I will go for the non-compression. Thanks again.

[1]

9. flex supply? wow, sorry, i'm not familiar with that concept.

my experience with compression fittings came from the two on the pump house of my well supply that failed during separate freezing nights that messed me up for days and forever changed my opinion about any plumbing connection that wasn't hard sweated permanent.

if someone mentions compression (or this new term flex supply) to me, i immediately reject it. i'm a big fan of old school plumbing. water that flows. toilets that flush.

sorry for stepping in here. i hope someone with more knowledge than me can help you out on this thread.

good luck...

[LeftyFingerPop]

10. I have never had a problem running a compression flex...

hose from an existing valve. What I am worried about is attaching the valve directly to the supply line via compression...that is what is looking "iffy" to me. So I am assuming (in fact, my toilet is like this) that I can buy a fitting that will hard plumb to the supply line, with the other end being compression, which will attach to the flex hose.

[puerco-bellies]

5. Good point. The only reason to chose MAPP over propane is the presence of water.

If you have water in the pipeline MAPP burns hot enough to evaporate any water seeping in to the system. Even with my main valve shut off I get a little water seeping all through my water system so I use MAPP instead of propane. If the sink in question has no water in the lines, propane would work just fine.

[LeftyFingerPop]

6. It has an old faucet...

that I am cutting off about 6 inches below the shut-offs, then I want to connect flex hoses to run them to the sink. As I am sitting here, I now think that I want to sweat a nozzle of some kind on the pipe to accept the flex hose. Just looking at the compression fittings that I bought made me go "Hmmmm....maybe not".

[bluesbassman]

11. Get a MAPP torch, it's worth it in the long run.

Like PB said, it burns hot enough to evaporate the water at the joint, and will evenly heat the joint to sweat the new fitting on. If you still have water bleeding back from the pipe, a trick I use is to take a piece of white bread (no crust) and shove it way back in the pipe. This will stop the water for a short time to allow you to get a good solder joint. After you have hooked everything up, slowly turn on the water and the soggy bread will get washed out.

[LeftyFingerPop]

12. Sounds good...thank you.

I used to know about the bread thing, but I had forgotten it...thanks for reminding me. It will wash right up through the faucet?

[bluesbassman]

13. It will wash out, just make sure you remove the aerator.

Use white bread, as is will dissolve pretty well. Rye would probably be a bad choice - save that for the corned beef sandwich after the job is done.:)

[One_Life_To_Give]

14. Have used a couple "Sharkbites"

These are the ones at Lowes/Home Depot good for both Copper and PEX. Good for some things and not others. Biggest shortcoming I found was fitting them into existing plumbing. The copper has to go in a very specific length. Which makes it difficult to assemble unless one piece is not rigidly installed yet. i.e. When inserting a tee into an existing line.

Now if you are taping into an existing PEX supply line then I think the "SharkBites" is the way to go. Unless you want to buy the Crimp Tool just for a single Tee.

[Schema Thing]

15. I've never had a problem with a compression fitting

It either works or it doesn't. If it doesn't, it's either because you didn't tighten it enough, or there was a dimple in the pipe (or maybe solder slag on the pipe).

You can also use a solder connection with a copper epoxy. I've used that where I couldn't get the water out in order to be able to solder. You'll find that at Home Depot.



Some of these new reusable PEC fittings are freaky to me; the ease with which they install, and idea that you can "quick release" them.... and yet, they seem to work.

[IndianaJones]

16. compression fittings are fine for low pressure applications. nt.