A beautiful story from the WSJ (and thank you, Make7, for opening the image)
DECEMBER 6, 2008
Over-40 Finds a Muse
Designers for the middle-aged pin hopes on Mrs. Obama
By TERI AGINS
New York designer Elie Tahari invited retail buyers to his showroom this past week to unveil his latest sartorial confection: a $598 purple-floral sheath that he has named "the Michelle dress," after Michelle Obama. The 44-year-old future first lady's immediate influence on fashion "has nothing to do with fashion trends," says Mr. Tahari, who plans to put the dress in ads this spring and in stores in June. "Her style is all about the woman being noticed, not just the dress." After years of unsuccessful attempts to satisfy middle-aged women -- a high-spending but difficult-to-please demographic -- the U.S. apparel industry is rejoicing that it has finally found its muse. In design studios along Seventh Avenue and in retail strategy sessions at stores from Talbots to Saks Fifth Avenue, designers and executives are holding up Mrs. Obama as their Baby Boomer pinup girl.
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Some styles have already begun to change at Ellen Tracy, a label that is overhauling its look after seeing sales slide in recent years. Some items now fit closer to the body, the way Mrs. Obama tends to wear her clothes. The internal book the company is using to relaunch the Ellen Tracy brand has four pages of images of Mrs. Obama on the campaign trail, wearing sheath dresses and casual sportswear. Designers at Liz Claiborne Inc. have struggled for years to revamp the label for middle-aged women. Now, Mrs. Obama's name is being bandied about as the role model for the company's new flagship collection, which hits stores next month. "Michelle Obama is the incarnation of what we have been thinking," says Isaac Mizrahi, Liz Claiborne's designer.
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As sales of women's clothes have plunged in the recession, middle-aged women have become a tempting target because of their tendency to spend more than younger women on clothes. Women over 35 spent an estimated $53.2 billion of the $109 billion in women's apparel purchases for the 12 months ended in September, according to market researcher NPD Group. By comparison, women from the ages of 18 to 34 spent only $37.3 billion (girls from 13 to 17 spent the rest).
Many fashion companies steer away from being too closely associated with Baby Boomers -- for fear of typecasting their brands as old. Now Mrs. Obama is proving that it's OK, even chic, to be 40-something. J. Crew wasted no time connecting the dots when it ran the headline "Shop J. Crew for the Michelle Obama Look" on its Web site soon after Mrs. Obama's late-October appearance on "The Tonight Show" with Jay Leno, where she wore a yellow sweater, shell and skirt, all from J. Crew. "If Michelle Obama can put together three pieces that we didn't show together, that's the validation that gives other women confidence that they can do the same," says Jenna Lyons, creative director at the specialty retailer.
Apparel makers appreciate that Mrs. Obama -- unlike many Hollywood celebrities on the fashion industry radar screen -- has realistic proportions. And she dresses in accessible mall brands, like J. Crew and White House Black Market, as well as in higher-priced designer labels like Maria Pinto and Thakoon. "One thing I love about her is that she isn't a stick figure and not a plus size," says Mr. Mizrahi. "She has a body pride I love."
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http://online.wsj.com/article/SB122852270571084377.html (subscription)