C.J. Chivers, New York Times
Sunday, March 6, 2005
Semipalatinsk Test Site , Kazakhstan -- The road is an aged dirt track running in a line across the Central Asian steppe, past grazing cattle and horses, arriving at a hillock overlooking a parched basin.
There are no warning signs. There is no gate beside the abandoned guard shack at the remains of the fence. Only the climbing numbers on the radiation detector suggest that perhaps it would be best to turn around. <snip>
Here, briefly, stood a metal tower roughly 100 feet high, ringed by sturdy objects: brick buildings, a bridge, bunkers of reinforced concrete and a park of idled tanks and aircraft, some with live animals tethered inside, set at various distances to see how they weathered what came next. Concrete observation towers were arranged at fixed distances in several directions, their instruments connected by subterranean cable to a distant command post where the experiment's masters could assess their work.
On this spot on a summer morning in 1949, Soviet scientists detonated Stalin's first atomic bomb. Over the next 40 years, in the air above the steppe and the soil of the surrounding area, scientists detonated at least 455 more. <snip>
http://www.sfgate.com/cgi-bin/article.cgi?file=/c/a/2005/03/06/MNGKKBJUSD1.DTL