Contrary1
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Tue Jun-01-10 08:27 PM
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I screwed up...need some advice regarding staining maple |
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I was in the process of re-staining a maple kitchen table. I sanded it down to the bare wood with no problem. I applied Minwax Early American to half of the table, which I have used before with great success.
To make a long sad story short, the table top came out too dark and blotchy...really bad. I did not realize that maple needed to be sealed first. I have had some success removing the stain with 3m-paint and varnish remover. It has not raised the grain.
I don't expect to get the table back to its original condition. But I would like to end up with a uniform color. Since I only stained half, it leaves me in a bit of a dilemma.
Would wood bleach be of any help?
Any advice would be most welcome.
Thanks!
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Stinky The Clown
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Tue Jun-01-10 08:45 PM
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1. Oxalyc acid *might* help. |
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I've used it to get the dark water stains out of oak. Not perfect, but pretty damned good.
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Wash. state Desk Jet
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Tue Jun-01-10 09:04 PM
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2. I have pulled stain off with stain stripper and lacquer thinner. |
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Buy some clean rags at hardware and razor scrapers work well. like a wide 4" window scraper. Just be careful not to scrape into the wood. Outside is the best place to do it. I stripped big heavy office doors that way ,than re-stained those doors a different stain color. Actually it was a maple color stain I stripped off. A steel putty knife works well too. 4" or 5 ". When your done stripping ,a light sand. also the lacquer thinner gets up the residue.It will strip the stain off too.Of course you will need rubber gloves !
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Paper Roses
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Wed Jun-02-10 04:43 AM
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3. Always stain a complete side top or whatever at the same time. |
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Edited on Wed Jun-02-10 04:59 AM by Paper Roses
Maple is such a hard wood that I wonder why you need filler. Filler is is usually reserved for open pore woods like Mahogany or Walnut. The best I have found is filler from Constantine's in Florida. I refinish mostly dark woods and use the Walnut filler. The Mahogany is too light and shows once you Varnish. Sequence: preparation, stain, fill, varnish.
I would use a stripper(I use 5F5, steel wool of 2 or 3 ought and rub the heck out of the area you stained. My husband used wood bleach on something once and was very dissatisfied with the results. As to the blotches, I bet you had some oily material that soaked into the wood at some point. Solvent should remove most of that as you work.
www.Minwax.com is a great web site with a Q and A section. Maybe it would be best to check them first. Don't want to make a bad thing worse. I think they also have a help line.
Be interested in hearing how you coped with this.
We all have a refinishing disaster of one type or another. Live and learn then spread the word.
Edited to add: Whenever you use a paint and varnish remover, always wipe the stripped surface with a solvent. Paint removers have paraffin in them. That paraffin blocks the even absorption of stain and rubbing the wood down will remove the stuff. I use Parks Furniture Refinisher as my solvent. Nasty stuff but does the job. I believe denatured alcohol will do the same job. Use extreme caution.
Always work in a well ventilated area, wear gloves and eye protection. All this junk is necessary but very toxic. Properly dry and dispose of rags in the recommended way. They can spontaneously combust.
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Mon Apr 29th 2024, 12:19 PM
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